Our latest PDF Ebook on how to get the best results from a KLOM EPG. The Mit Guide to Lock Picking. An excellent guide discussing pin tumbler picking. MIT-Guide-to-Lockpicking. Document. Pages. Notes. Text. Zoom. CLOSE. Previous for “” Next. p. 1. Loading Loading. p. 2. Loading Loading. p. 3. Loading. Lockpicking Detail caite.info Lock Picking, Locks, Pdf, Libros, Door Latches The Document Which Was Formerly Called The MIT Guide to Lockpicking Lock.
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The big secret of lock picking is that it's easy. Anyone can learn how to pick locks. The theory of lock picking is the theory of exploiting. The MIT guide to lock picking is a must read for any beginner. It is the most famous, and one of the best (next in line to this site of course), introductions to lock. MIT Guide to Lock Pi cki ng. Ted the Tool. September 1 . The theory of lock picking is the theory of exploiting mechanical defects. There are a.
Don't worry, when I was 15 I was lock picking my school's lock because I wanted places to be alone. Burglars are very aware of people leaving extra keys around, and what you may think is a super hiding place is actually 4 on the burglar's Typical Clever Hiding Place list. I once saw a shady character try the same key in every car in a parking lot. Does the insane toddler censor the internet for you? KennyCason on Mar 20, where do you live?? Couldn't the thief simply pull up on your gun case and cut the cable through the gap created? If you really want a stronger lock I presume the main limitation is that, in my experience, there's a maximum thickness the locker design will allow for the lock.
If you concentrate only on feeling whether one pin is set or not, you'll take forever. As a beginner, you'll need to work a lot faster than is suggested here or you'll just end up getting frustrated. The MIT guide to lock picking puts too much emphasis on the pushing pins up part, and not enough on how to use the tension wrench. Pushing the pins up is the easy part, using the perfect amount of tension, not too little that the pins won't set, but not too much that they get pinched between the shaft and the plug, is the hardest part in picking locks.
I recommend quickly pushing the pins up, one by one, using varying amounts of tension. You need to be constantly varying tension. Also, systematically change the order in which you pick the pins, try first from front to back, then from back to front. The hardest locks to pick are ones in which neither of these works, and you have to pick the pins in some weird order. If you've been at it for hours, are getting frustrated, and wearing down your picks, try the newbie approach.
I don't endorse this method when talking about the "art of lock picking", but it can get the job done. Actually tried this once and it worked. GermTheGeek-2 on Sept 17, Unrelated, but take a look at what this publicity has done to his little server: Luyt on Sept 18, FreeBSD 4. They still exist, churning for years without complaint My wife still comes home from the flea market with old padlocks for me that she gets for a quarter because they don't have the keys. They make excellent cheap and sometimes challenging puzzles.
Can anyone recommend a good lock pick set and maybe some locks to buy to practice on? My mom expressed an interest in lock picking a while back and I was thinking of getting her some stuff.
ChuckMcM on Sept 17, I attended a talk that Matt Blaze gave on picking locks and he discussed various 'tools' that folks use. The fact is that many locksmiths make their own out of bits of steel or steel wire that has been bent into shape.
Of course there are kits with a mix of tools in them that are often available. But another thing he had done was to take a bunch of door locks and mount them into a board in a 3 x 3 arrangement 9 total locks and removed pins so the first lock was 1 pin the next lock had 2 pins, etc up to 7 or 8 pins.
Then you could practice picking them from easy 1 pin to hard 8 pins. I found that to be a really clever thing and if you know someone who is re-keying their house or for some reason decides to replace all the locks, you can often get those from the locksmith doing the work. It depends on whether you want to make them yourself or buy them.
If you want to make them yourself, street sweeper bristles work well just follow a street sweeper on a bicycle and you'll get a few , as do the strips of spring steel inside of windshield wipers.
Then, just look up some tutorials on how to make them I'm sure youtube has a few decent ones. If you want to buy them, Southord has some really nice sets, and I personally recommend the PXS for a beginner I use it daily.
This isn't a recommendation as such but may be of interest to you: You really only need a good small flat screw driver, piece of wire and pliers. It also has an added benefit of not unbeknownly breaking numerous laws or other local regulations. The guide explains this in the appendix. You can make them from street cleaner bristles, bicycle spokes, brick strap, old springs etc I don't know if this is really the case, but I thought lock picks were something you couldn't easily buy.
But my friend from MIT told me that the Cambridge street sweepers used metal brushes and the bristles were long flat pieces of spring steel, and showed me a lock pick set that he made from that with a bench grinder. He had a few spare pieces and that's what I made mine out. Both the tension wrench and the rakes can be made out of this kind of spring steel.
Lock picks are generally quite easy to acquire: Worst case scenario is customs snatches them, but that seems unlikely. Google already cached the pdf. Just paste http: Then you can save it in Google docs if you want. DiabloD3 on Sept 17, The MIT Guide to Lockpicking isn't about lock picking, its about how to think as a successful programmer.
At least, thats how I've always viewed it. If you want to extrapolate a more abstract lesson, I'd say it's less about thinking like a successful programmer and more about learning how to tackle problems while not following the "rules" of the problems.
For example, a lock might have very sophisticated mushroom pins to avoid normal lock-picking techniques, and if you "play by the rules" with a normal tension wrench and simple pick, it may take you a long time - or it might never work.
But on the other side, a sharp knock on the pins with a bump key refuses to play this game, and requires a different countermeasure for the lock. It's about looking at the whole boundary area of the problem, rather than the generally accepted one. I'm going to study this and use it.
You can imagine I've accidentally locked myself out a couple of times such as when a angry gust of wind slammed my door shut. I will call the landlord no more!
Bud on Sept 17, Just duct-tape an extra key somewhere weird. Make sure it's weird enough. A block down the street underneath someone's front steps, under a mailbox that is not yours, something like that. Deestan on Sept 17, That's horrible advice. Leaving your key in someone else's property is a good way to lose it. Burglars are very aware of people leaving extra keys around, and what you may think is a super hiding place is actually 4 on the burglar's Typical Clever Hiding Place list. Duct-tape a set of lockpicks somewhere weird instead, if you're going with that.
No biggie if you lose them, and a burglar is either not going to have the skill to use them, or carry his own, better set instead. The big secret of lock picking is that it's easy. Anyone can learn how to pikc locks.
There seems to be a large number of spelling errors. Not sure if it's indicative of anything other than lack of editing. The text is probably the output from an OCR program that was run on a printed copy of the test, and the user didn't scan the output for the inevitable errors that these programs produce. It looks to be retyped badly , not OCRd. Some context: Well, just incase someone wants to actual PDF: This should have been the OP link.
So much easier to read. I have a transparent lock in my desk, great fun for people to try opening and teaches about how secure standard locks actually are. I've had MasterLock key locks, brass, steel plate, and combination locks and mini-key locks. No cutters were used, they simply forced the locks.
I now carry everything with me currently and don't use a locker, which is a PITA. Stay away from anything that says Master on it and absolutely stay away from combination locks, both the dial and the wheel style.
You want a lock that uses ball bearings in the shackle, not the spring loaded latch type you can easily tell which is used if you unlock the lock and inspect the inside of the shackle; if you see perfectly circular notches on the inside of the shackle then that lock uses ball bearings.
If you see a straight edge in the cutout of the latch, you're dealing with a spring mechanism. The American Lock is a nice choice for this application yes, it is made by Master but it has some redeeming qualities. It is shrouded so it cannot be easily shimmed and it comes with a 5 pin replaceable cylinder. The keyway on mine is relatively paracentric many steep angles and warding that makes it harder to pick which is nice.
If you are super paranoid you can re-pin the core or swap it with a new one, preferably something with 6 pins. The best feature of this lock is that it looks more secure than its neighbors and it cannot be easily shimmed or opened with a kinetic attack.
If I were popping gym locker locks I'd go kinetic on spring mechanism locks since they are the easiest to open quickly with no special tools.
I wouldn't want to be caught with a rake or a bump key so those methods are probably not your biggest concern.
You want the thief to look at your lock and think, shit, this one isn't worth the effort, move on the next. Like you said, you bought sub-par locks and they were simply forced open. A or similar isn't going to give it up that easily, which makes you less of a target. If you really want a stronger lock I presume the main limitation is that, in my experience, there's a maximum thickness the locker design will allow for the lock.
As such it's generally trivial to break the lock with a bolt cutter. I think that's actually a feature, the gym owners want to be able to open the lockers if a member loses their keys or simply locks one of the lockers and then never comes back. So I think you should simply consider going to a better gym?
Seriously, that sounds pretty terrible, I've never had any issues in any gym I've been to and I'm not exactly paranoid either sometimes I'd forget my lock and leave my stuff unlocked and never had any problem. Like one of the disc style padlocks. Use the most commonly used lock on the outside of the locker. You don't want your locker to stand out. Shrouded padlocks are more secure, but they also tell potential thieves that your locker may actually be worth breaking into.
In any case, the gym management often restricts your choice, because they need to be able to cut locks off. I'd save the serious security for the inside of the locker.
Get a locking hard case designed for handguns, with a cable lock slot built in, and use a cable lock to secure it to the inside of the locker.
Put your valuables in it and pile your clothes on top. Consider changing to a gym that has separate locker and changing areas, so that cameras can be used to detect locker break-ins and catch the culprits. The individual padlock is, at best, a delaying tactic, which is useless if someone has unlimited time in which to break security. If someone is in my locker room popping locks with a shim, I want someone to notice that and detain them, or at least identify them from the video footage.
Someone capable of cutting a padlock can definitely cut a cable lock, so I'm not sure who you're going to deter this way. You will, however, increase your loss if they take your gun case. I think it's a fallacy that using a better lock makes you a bigger target.
In a gym, thieves are looking for the same thing in every locker: A better lock doesn't indicate that the Hope diamond is inside. I guess the idea of a cable lock here is to use it so that it attaches the bottom or backside of the hard case to the inside of the locker, so that the cable lock is only accessible from inside the hard case. Then, the thief would have to destroy either the hard case, or the whole locker.
That would be slow and noisy. It's not impossible but deters intruders who will simply perform a cost-benefit analysis and move on but will surely destroy your clothes in revenge.
Couldn't the thief simply pull up on your gun case and cut the cable through the gap created? There's no way you're going to get the cable tight enough by hand than a thief can't move the case a bit safes generally use bolts, which don't have this problem. Maybe if it's secured to the back wall it will be awkward enough to maneuver the cutters that the thief gives up? Interesting psychology. But it seems to be what burglars often do: If you make the lock too strong, the thief just cuts the hinges of the locker.
It doesn't take much for your lock to not be the weak link in the security chain. The unattended security measures are only there to delay a criminal long enough for a human to take action. Are you smarter than a dumb hunk of metal? Yes, you are. So is a thief that is stupid by human standards. The only reasonable counter to a human criminal is another human.
The lock is productivity multiplier capital for that human. If there is no security guard, there is nothing there to multiply, and the lock and locker are only increasing the security you provide for your own stuff. Do you really want to check up on your locker between every set? It would be annoying, but you could do it.
You wouldn't be able to do a long cardio workout, though. As such, time spent shopping for a stronger lock is probably not as useful as time spent yelling at the gym management to stop the locker room thefts. They need a guard to make sure no one is popping locks in the locker rooms.
Until they have one, what's going to stop someone from going in with a rotary tool and a stolen staff shirt or handyman outfit, telling the customers that they have to occasionally cut locks off when people abandon their lockers?
A customer would only have reason to challenge that ruse if the thief were cutting off their own lock, but a real employee would know that the thief was not a genuine employee or contractor authorized to do that to anybody's lock.
If locker room thefts are a general problem, you have to hire a person. If the gym won't do it, individual customers could, at greater overall cost. But really, that's not necessary. Just don't keep valuable items in a gym locker. Leave them at home, put them in the trunk of your car, or have a trusted human hold them. Keeping your valuables in a gym locker is like parking your car on the street in Detroit. Sure, it is theoretically possible that your security measures are sufficient, but you are placing your property at much higher risk to begin with.
None of what you just said indicates that a better lock will make you a bigger target. I think you're also drastically overestimating the resolve of locker thieves. No one's cutting locker hinges or dressing as a handyman as an excuse to bring in a rotary tool. It's not a bank heist. Locker thieves are casual thieves.
I would imagine that the most common attack mode is to just shim cheap locks open. If thieves did begin destroying lockers, the gym would probably actually do something.
And obviously, yes, a guard is the ideal solution. I don't think I've ever been to a gym that did this, though. It's not worth it to them. The thieves break into the most commonly-used locks. FWIW there are hacks for most locks on Youtube! There's nothing inside the locker to which to attach a hard case, which would undoubtedly be stolen. Been going there for years.
BTW all gyms have this problem - it isn't uncommon. I'm sure if you made a perhaps public fuss about their lack of security in the locker rooms, they'd be willing to cancel with no penalties.
You could probably also argue that such a failure constitutes a violation of their end of the agreement, depending on the wording. Don't be a doormat, dude.
Why not leave valuables in your locked car? Is that a sarcastic joke? Cars are obvious targets for burgling. At least over here, insurance companies won't pay anything if you leave it in the car and it gets burgled. Cars are probably broken into less than gym lockers. A locked door on a car is typically sufficient deterrent, as the thief will just prowl for an unlocked one.
A lock on a gym locker is apparently not enough deterrent.